Sunday, January 30, 2011

A trip to the Harem

The Sultan's Harem sounds like such a romantic and beautiful place. Only a small part of the harem at Topkapi Palace is open to the public, and I went there for the first time on a cold January day.  Even if I loved the visit, and I could sense the forgotten, overwhelming beauty, I had a hard time imagine living there being romantic.  Every Ottoman household had a harem, and the word literarily means "private", and it was the description of the women and children's section of the household.  So the harem of the palace was the family section, where the sultan and his sons retreated to "after work".  I have read that at times as many as 300 concubines lived at the Topkapi Harem, and their only purpose was to be more beautiful and powerful than all the other women.  The only other people allowed in the harem (except for the Sultan and his sons) were a large group (up to 200) of mutilated men whose purpose was to guard the women.  Both the concubines and the eunuchs were slaves imported from other countries, because Islamic law forbade enslaving muslims.   Imagine being a 12 year old girl, stolen from, or sold by your family and brought to a lazy life in luxury where you had to learn a new language, culture and religion.  Where you would  learn the arts of make-up, dress, comportment, music, reading, writing, embroidery and dancing, and then compete with hundreds of other beautiful and talented girls who would even kill you if they saw that beneficial.  
And you thought girls in Middle School nowadays are mean...




The entrance to the palace

The Courtyard of The Queen Mother (mother of the sultan)

The Courtyard of The Concubines


The Sultans throne in The Imperial Hall



The Appartement of the Queen Mother










Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Happy New Year

We're well back after 3 weeks of winter in Norway, and I must say Istanbul feels like spring compared to the cold north.  We flew from 12ºF (-11ºC) to 12ºC (53ºF), and it actually takes some time to get used to both.  Going to Norway we had forgotten how to dress for winter (like gators and wooly long johns), and now I have to stop myself from putting on my down jacket and a heavy scarf.  It is still January, so  winter is not yet over, and it is not uncommon for it to snow in Istanbul.  I think the chances are higher that we will get lots of rain, but we have been lucky so far and had plenty of sunny days.

It took me a while to get settled back into the routine after vacation, so it is a little late to post Christmas pictures. I still want to share a few highlights, because I think there are some out there who will enjoy them.

View from my parents house

View from my parents house

View from my parents house

Chopping down the Christmas tree

Going downhill on 40 years old plastic skies

Australian cousin

Then we got more snow







Christmas Eve


A "spark" (translates to "kick" ) from my childhood

"Rattkjelke" ("sled with a steering wheel"))

Afternoon sunset on the island

Sunset in Grimstad